Making Organic Cloth

Since the year 2000 all the handloom cotton fabric has been woven using organic cotton grown by Agrocel in Gujarat.

Bishopston Trading Company constantly strive to bring a fair wage to all those involved in the process of handloom weaving and since 2006 they have been able to source handloom cotton directly from 98 weavers in 6 Self Help Groups.

Organic cotton fabric is made by handloom weavers in K.V.Kuppam.

Cotton yarn is wound into 19 metre hanks.

The yarn hanks are dyed and hung out to dry.

The 19 m hanks of warp threads are then sent to be sized using rice water starch.

Rice water and coconut oil starch stiffens the warp threads making it easier to span the looms. It washes out easily afterwards.

The warp threads are stretched evenly onto boards.

Working in the shade, the size is flicked carefully all along the length of the warp threads.

Using a specially adapted brush the men run up and down the 19 metre length until each thread is coated in size.

To complete the process the warp is spun around to dry it quickly.

Each individual warp thread has then to be tied to the reed threads in preparation for weaving.

Each morning the prepared warp threads are stretched out in the streets around the weaver’s quarter.

Working down the length of the warp the threads are evenly distributed before being rolled ready for the loom.

The rolled up warp is attached to the pit loom and a Self Help Group member begins weaving.

After weaving the cloth is washed and dried in the sun.

Each length of cloth is carefully ironed.

Finally the cloth is folded and is now ready to be used to make clothes and accessories.

www.agrocel-cotton.com

www.fairtrade.org.uk/downloads/pdf/cotton_india.pdf

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